A traditional Batik Art has been known a few centuries ago in Java Island. If we search the improvement of batik in java, it can’t be separated from the improvement of batik art in Central Java, Yogya batik is a part of the batik art development in Central Java which had got the combinations of some motives from other places.The course of “Yogya Batik” cannot be separated from Giyanti Treaty in 1755. Soon after Mataram Kingdom was devided into two parts, and Ngayogyakarta Hadiningrat was established, Mataram clothes were removed from Surakarta to Ngayogyakarta, so Sri Susuhunan Pakubuwono II ( The Previous King of Yogya) designed a new costume which was different from Surakarta traditional costume.In Giyanti Village, the conference was held. Among the results were the area of Mataram was devided into two, one area was under the authority of Sri Paduka Susuhunan PB II in Surakarta Hadiningrat, another area was under the authority of Kanjeng Pangeran Mangkubumi who was after inaugurated as a king having a title Ngersa Dalem Sampeyan Dalem Ingkang Sinuwun Kanjeng Sultan Hamengkubuwono Senopati ing Ngalaga Ngabdul Rachman Sayidin Panatagama Kalifatullah ingkang jumeneng kaping I, whose palace was then named Ngayogyakarta Hadiningrat.All the heirlooms and palace properties were also devided into two parts. Mataram costume was brought to Yogyakarta , as Kanjeng Pangeran Mangkubumi wanted to maintain it. Therefore, Surakarta which was under the authority of Sri Paduka Susuhunan PB III designed a new costume and managed to make the traditional costume of Surakarta Kingdom as we can see up to now.
The characteristics of Yogyakarta style, there are two kinds of background or cloth basic colour. White and Black. Meanwhile the colour of batik can be white (mori cloth colour), dark blue blackish and dark brown. “Sered” or the edge of cloth, white, was exerted not to mixed or soga enters sered, both for the cloth with white or black background. The decoration, first: Geometry: stripe aslant line, crossing line or ceplok and kawung, anyaman and limaran as well. The second decoration style : Non-Geometry : semen, lung-lungan and boketan.The decoration style which is symbolic relates closely with Hindu-Java philosophy (Mrs. Nian S Jumena) among others are : Sawat symbolizes a crown or high powerful man, Meru symbolizes a mountain or earth, Dragon symbolizes water, Bird symbolizes wind or upper world, Fire tongue symbolizes fire.Since the first time there had been prohibition cloth. Each Sultan who had reigned deserved to make the new rules or prohibition.
The last, Sri Paduka Sultan HB VIII made the new rule (revision) entitled Pranatan dalem bab pengangge keprabon ing Nagari Ngayogyakarta Hadiningrat ( The King’s Rule of Royal Clothes in Ngayogyakarta Hadiningrat Palace), which was published in Rijksblad van Djokjakarta No. 19, in 1927. Pengangge Keprabon (Royal Costume) are cap or kuluk (wangkidan), dodot/kampuh and bebet prajurit (soldier wraparound cloth worn by man), bebet nyamping ( long cloth), trousers, and glisire (cindhe trousers,velvet,silk,catoon, and its slide),songsong or umbrella. The prohibited batik motives : parang rusak (parang rusak barong, parang rusak gendreh < 8 cm, parang rusak klitik < 4 cm), semen ageng sawat grudha (gurdha), semen ageng sawat lar, udan riris, rujak senthe, parang-parangan which is not parang rusak ; how big it is depends on parang rusak size. All the Sultan’s (King’s) sons are allowed to wear those kinds of batik cloth. The queen’s batik costume is allowed to be the same with The Sultan (King). The other wives are allowed to wear parang rusak gendreh and others down. The first wife of KG Pangeran Adipati is the same with her husband. The other wives are allowed to wear parang rusak gendreh and others down. Also for KG Pangeran Adipati’s sons, their wives are the same with their husband ; and the previous prince (Pangeran Putra Sentana Panjenengan dalem Nata).Wayah Dalem (the King’s grand children) wear parang rusak gendreh and down, also for the King’s great grand children and the grand children’s children. The great grand children’s children (boys and girls) and down are allowed to wear batik parang-parangan which should have motive, prohibited to wear blank motive.Pepatih Dalem ( The Vice King) is allowed to wear parang rusak barong and others down. The Assistants : Pengulu Hakim (Judge), Wedana Ageng Prajurit (Soldiers), Bupati Nayaka jawi lan lebet (Outside and Inside Regents) are allowed to wear parang rusak gendreh and others down. Bupati Patih Kadipaten lan Bupati Polisi ( Vice Regents and Police Chief) are the same with the Assistants mentioned above. Penghulu Landrad ( Landrad Village Chief), Wedana Keparak para Gusti (Nyai Riya) or the village chief’s assistant, Bupati Anom (Junior Regent), Riya Bupati Anom (Junior Regent’s Assistant) parang rusak gendreh and others down. The servants and assistants whose positions are under Junior Regent’s Assistant and those who are not Junior Regent, those whose positions are Village Chief’s Senior Assisants also wear parang rusak gendreh and others down.
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